I am reminded of the history of Chatham Artillery Punch, a storied 18th
century Savannah concoction that has survived to this day in regular usage.  The
Chatham Artillery has an old and distinguished heritage.  (George Washington, in
gratitude for their service, donated to them two cannon, which are now
proudly displayed in front of the city's old Cotton Exchange.)  They came together
with other local militia groups for periodic drill days -- days which typically
ended in a grand ball with a punch-making contest with each militia vying for
consideration of having made the best one.  Legend has it that when the
recipe that is now known as Chatham Artillery Punch was concocted, the Chatham
Artillery was declared winner in perpetuity, no better being deemed possible.

There have come several variations down through the years but they are all a
long fermented mixture of tea, brown sugar, citrus juices, cherries, and a
wide variety of liquors (and perhaps madeira that has made the crossing from
Portugal in slow boats so that the salt air and rocking of the sea has given it an
18th century character*) mixed in large crocks, covered with cheesecloth to
keep out unwanted sentient beings, and allowed to ferment in the warmer upper
regions of the home.  There are related tales of some gentlemen having created
revolving rooms for tasting purposes -- always with the caveat that no amount
of tasting can make one immune to its powerful effects.  In fact, one
traditionally dilutes it with champagne and freshens it with new fruit immediately
prior to serving -- but never so much that the champagne is allowed to be a
noticeable top note in the punch's flavor.

Those in the know do try to help Punch neophytes understand that, after more
than one punch cup, one's mental faculties undergo substantial temporary
diminution.  It is said that William Henry Harrison came to speak at a gathering of
the Artillery and had more than one glass -- perhaps a number greater than
one.  Accounts of the evening found the speech to be "a bit unusual -- but the
band played very nicely."

I refer those seeking a good recipe to split the difference between my uncle
Arthur Gordon's in the Christ Episcopal Church cookbook and that in the
Savannah Junior League's c1980 book on Low Country life and cookery.  It is a good
compromise between the fruity and the death-defying.  I do not advise
attempting to color it green for St. Patrick's Day but to use green maraschino cherries
in it instead.

Sincerely,

Mrs. Marla Randolph Stevens

* I caution that catawba wine inclusionary recipes are backwoods frauds.  No
gentleman of the Artillery would have owned up to haviing tasted such a
cracker home brew, much less to have included it in his contest-winning punch.

In a message dated 11/28/2006 23:56:40 Eastern Standard Time,
[log in to unmask] writes:
The "punch" of the 17th, 18th, and early 19th centuries was a very different
libation from the juice-champagne-gingerale-and-sherbert abominations that
now bear the name.  Made with expensive imported fruits such as lemons,
limes, and oranges, various liquors, and sugar, a good punch was a
gentleman's drink made and served in smallish bowls.  The ability to prepare
a good punch was considered by many to be an art form.  The huge punchbowls
that double as monteiths or bottle coolers are almost always Victorian or
Edwardian.

Kathy in Virginia (who often longs for the return of Georgian grace and
elegance)

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